We arrived in Bukhara late and found the hotel that I had called along the way from the border just before all the restaurants in the old centre shut. ‘Liaby House’ was a great little hotel, just off the main square and man-made pond of the same name. It was a fusion of a new [...]
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The next morning we came down to breakfast and found another 6 teams catching up. One of them told us that there had been a casualty on the Mongol rally and that one of their friends had tried to reach them during the night to confirm whether they were OK. They said that although they didn’t [...] We got to the Iranian-Turkmenistan border far too late. It was supposed to close for the day at 3.30pm and we got there at 2.30pm. I was correspondingly nervous and pushed Nick through all the Iranian control points as quickly as possible. And there were lots! First, we had to walk over to a building and get [...] The next morning we got up at around 9am and walked downstairs. The family were already up, with the son at school and the husband at the hospital where he worked as an accountant. We were served a delicious breakfast of freshly baked bread, panir cheese, tomatoes and home-made jams and the two women asked us [...] The road from the border to Tabriz was long and boring. The only excitement/source of stimulation were our attempts of getting fuel. Gas stations were few and far between and often the ones we did find only sold CNG gas, with unbelievably long queues of cars waiting for their turn. Once we did find a gas [...] We woke up with the sun at 5.30am and started quickly packung up our camp. The cow dung fire was still smoldering as we loaded up the cars. In preparation for crossing the Iranian border, I tried to hide my Infidel status. After much discussion, it was decided that the best place for my American [...] On our last day in Turkey, we decided to get as close to the Iranian border as possible in order to avoid the crowds the of next day and cross it as early and smoothly as possible. I got up with the sun at about 5, washed at the little well at the top of our field, [...] On our third day in Turkey, we saw the highest temperatures yet. At 11am it had already climbed up to 53.7C (128F) and even the scarcest shade was packed out with people taking a break. We all struggled in our own way – Nick dripped off of every part of his face and upper body; my [...] Did we mention that traffic is atrocious in Istanbul? After a scenic drive along the coast of the Bosporus from Kilyos to Istanbul, we spent nearly an hour to get onto the bridge crossing over to the Turkish mainland. With hordes of jam-packed cars and trucks herding us to the toll gate, we had no choice [...] Polly’s suspension was riding very low, so on our first night in Sofia we went searching for pet stores. Pet stores?! Wanting to beef up her suspension, we were looking for those rubber cong balls rottweilers chew on. We bought a couple of sizes and Nick proceeded to dismantle the rear suspension. Placing a 4 inch [...] |
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